link.png Method in madness: Gucci Autumn-Winter 16← Back

When Alessandro Michele took over the reigns at Gucci a year ago, everyone was taken by surprise: not only was a virtually unknown designer being appointed creative director of one of Italy’s most famous luxury brands, but his designs were also unexpected and took the world by storm.
 
Having immediately fallen for the charm of Michele’s whimsical collections, consumers and fashion critics alike have been unanimous in singing his praise. One of the first shows on the Milan Fashion Week schedule, his Autumn-Winter 16 collection for Gucci was no exception to the rule. 
 
 
‚ÄčEntitled ‘Rhizomatic Scores’ the collection put into effect the notion of multiplicity: something which has been key in Michele’s work since he started as creative director. In a jumbled abundance of references and styles, Michele’s love for the seventies once again surfaced, along with animal motifs and geeky-cool styling. The designer played with a rainbow colour palette, taking great pleasure, as usual, in pairing clashing hues.
But whilst he stuck to signature elements, there was a new twist to the Autumn-Winter 16 collection. With ‘Rhizomatic Scores’, Michele defied the notion of binaries, suggesting instead that everything is interrelated, including opposing styles: soft pastels and delicate chiffon were paired with knuckledusters, bombers, bags and coats spray-painted with graffiti double G logos (by artist Trevor Andrew). The collection points towards a more complex identity: the Gucci girl is becoming darker, less innocent.
 
Autumn-Winter ‘16 can be taken as a sign that Michele is thinking about evolution but also about how to simultaneously continue riding the wave of commercial success. Unperturbed by what the rest of the luxury fashion industry is doing, with his explosive collections the designer is marching on down the path he has carved out for himself and Gucci.