link.png From tailoring to nudity, the extremes of Paris Fashion Week.← Back


Image source - Valentino

Yesterday saw the end of Paris Fashion Week, a further strong example of luxury fashion for men. Tailoring was, of course, on the agenda, but the Paris Fashion Week designers didn’t just stop there.
 
Valentino
Geometric shapes were de rigueur at Valentino, in a collection that took inspiration from artist Esther Stewart, starting out in shades of grey and gradually becoming more colourful. Outerwear was the main focus, ranging from capes to blouson jackets. 
 

Dior Homme
The show opened on formal dress, before then evolving into an exploration of the “Homme Fleur”, as designer Kris Van Assche named the collection: “I wanted to bring formality into the world of the technical and utilitarian, to produce a techno-sartorial collection.” Here too, there were variations on coats in all shapes and sizes, from denim to leather, and from double-breasted overcoats to duffle.
 

Image source - Rick Owens

Rick Owens
Rick Owens made the headlines with a particularly bold collection. Taking the concept of nudity in fashion to an extreme, models emerged on the runway clad in garments that displayed their genitals. Once again, Rick Owens revealed himself to be a designer who doesn’t just design clothes, but also knows how to start a debate about fashion.
 
Image source - Givenchy

Givenchy
The Givenchy show was anything far from sober, starting with a sparkling red runway carpet. The show opened on pinstripes and tailoring, before tipping into a dark, otherworldy celebration of the colour red. Tribal patterns, face-paints and man-skirts all made for a striking collection from Creative Director Riccardo Tisci. 

 

Hermès
From double breasted suits, to elegant overalls Hermès presented a dapper urban man. The collection consisted of a subtle palette of greys and blues, with purple and lime scarves injecting a touch of colour. Leather bags were inevitably a highlight, as the luxury leather goods label showed what it does best.


Image source - Thom Browne

Thom Browne
Thom Browne presented an all-black collection that referenced Victorian funeral customs, starting with undertakers’ top hats. Textures were key with velvet, wool and fur and the whole collection was given a strong androgynous dimension, with models dressed in lace, skirts and capes.
 
Paris Fashion Week gave us a quintessentially urban man, combined with an underlying exploration of gender, thereby bringing the three-week marathon of men’s shows to a resounding close.